What the Chilkat River offers and when to fish it

The Chilkat River is a short, powerful system that drains the Chilkat Mountains into Lynn Canal near Haines. It runs about 40 miles from its glacier-fed headwaters to tidewater, and it holds five species of Pacific salmon plus steelhead and Dolly Varden. The river is split into two distinct sections by the Chilkat Lake outlet: the upper river above the lake, which is glacier-fed and milky, and the lower river below the lake, which clears enough to sight-fish and runs through the famous Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve.

Timing matters more on the Chilkat than on most rivers because the runs stack up and the water conditions change fast. Summer runs of pink and chum salmon arrive in July and August; fall runs of coho and chinook follow in September and October. Steelhead move through in spring (April to June) and again in fall (September to November). The lower river fishes best when the glacier melt drops enough to see the bottom—usually mid-July onward—while the upper river stays too silty for sight-fishing most of the year.

Key Takeaways

  • The lower Chilkat River below the lake outlet clears by mid-July and holds coho, chum, and chinook salmon plus steelhead; the upper river stays glacier-fed and milky but holds fish year-round.
  • Coho salmon peak in September and October and respond well to small spoons and flies in the lower river's clear pools.
  • Steelhead run in spring (April–June) and fall (September–November), with fall fish more abundant and easier to locate in lower water.
  • Access is limited to foot traffic and boat; there are no roads along the river, so you must hike in or float down from the upper valley.
  • The Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve protects the lower river corridor, and fishing is allowed but regulations prohibit motors and restrict camping to designated sites.

Lower river: clear water and sight-fishing for coho

Below Chilkat Lake, the river runs clear enough to sight-fish from mid-July through November. This section is where most visiting anglers spend their time. The water is cold and fast, with long glides, deep pools, and gravel bars that hold salmon and steelhead. Coho salmon dominate the fall run; they arrive in September and stay through October, holding in the deeper pools and responding to small spoons (size 1 to 3), flies tied in orange and black, and small plugs.

The lower river is narrow enough that you can cover it on foot, wading from bar to bar and working the seams where current breaks. Steelhead are mixed in with the coho, and they hold in the same water. Fall steelhead are larger and more aggressive than spring fish, and they take the same flies and spoons. Chum salmon also run the lower river in August and September; they are bigger and darker than coho and prefer heavier spoons and larger flies.

Access to the lower river is by foot from the Haines area or by floating down from the upper valley. The Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve protects this section, and motors are prohibited. Camping is allowed only at designated sites; check with the Haines Ranger District before you go, as site availability changes seasonally.

Upper river: glacier-fed water and spring steelhead

Above Chilkat Lake, the river is fed by glaciers and stays silty most of the year. This section is harder to fish because you cannot see the bottom, but it holds steelhead and salmon year-round and sees fewer anglers. Spring steelhead (April to June) move through this section on their way upstream, and they respond to larger flies and spoons fished deep in the current. The water is cold and fast, so use heavy sinking lines and work the deeper pools methodically.

The upper river is also where chinook salmon hold in summer and early fall before moving downstream. Chinook are large and powerful, and they require heavier tackle and bigger flies than coho. The glacier melt makes sight-fishing impossible, so you fish by feel and by reading the current. This section is best for anglers who are comfortable fishing blind and who have experience with larger fish.

Access to the upper river is by hiking into the Chilkat Valley or by arranging a float trip down from the headwaters. The terrain is steep and brushy, and the weather can change fast. Plan for a full day of hiking if you are going in on foot, and bring a map and compass or GPS.

Tackle and fly selection for Chilkat conditions

The Chilkat is a spoon-and-fly river. Spoons work well because they are visible in the glacier melt and because they cover water fast. Use size 1 to 3 spoons in silver, gold, and orange for coho and steelhead; size 3 to 5 for chum and chinook. Kastmasters, Pixees, and Krocodiles are standard choices. Plugs work too, especially small crankbaits in the 2- to 3-inch range.

Fly fishing is productive in the lower river when the water clears. Use a 6- to 8-weight rod with a sinking-tip or full-sinking line for steelhead and coho. Flies should be orange, black, or chartreuse, tied on size 2 to 4 hooks. Intruder-style flies, Skagit heads, and traditional steelhead patterns all work. In the upper river, use heavier lines and larger flies because the water is faster and you need to get down.

Bring extra spoons and flies because the river is rocky and snags are common. The water is cold year-round, so wear a wetsuit or heavy waders and bring a change of clothes. The weather is unpredictable, so pack rain gear and a warm layer even in summer.

Regulations and seasons on the Chilkat

Alaska Department of Fish and Game manages the Chilkat River, and regulations change by section and by season. The lower river (below the lake) is open to fishing year-round, but salmon seasons are set annually and vary by species. Coho and chum salmon have fall seasons; chinook have a summer season. Steelhead are open in spring and fall. Check the current regulations with the Haines Ranger District or the Alaska Department of Fish and Game website before you fish.

The Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve prohibits motors and restricts camping to designated sites. Fires are not allowed in the preserve, so bring a camp stove. The preserve is closed to hunting, but fishing is allowed under state regulations. Respect the eagles and other wildlife; stay back from nesting areas and do not disturb birds.

Getting to the Chilkat and planning your trip

The Chilkat River is accessible from Haines by road to the Chilkat River Road trailhead, which is about 10 miles from town. From there, you can hike into the lower river valley or arrange a float trip with a local outfitter. Several guides and outfitters in Haines offer Chilkat trips, including float packages that start in the upper valley and end at tidewater. These trips typically take three to five days and include camping and meals.

If you are hiking in on your own, plan for a full day to reach the lower river. The trail is steep and brushy, and stream crossings can be difficult in high water. Bring a map, compass, and GPS. The weather is cool and wet even in summer, so pack layers and rain gear. Mosquitoes are heavy in July and August, so bring insect repellent.

Haines has lodging, restaurants, and fly shops. The closest airport is Juneau International, about 45 minutes away by small plane. You can also reach Haines by ferry from Juneau or by driving from the Alaska Highway. Plan to spend at least three days on the river to make the trip worthwhile.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time to fish the Chilkat for coho?

September and October are peak coho season on the lower Chilkat. The water is clear, the fish are fresh, and they are aggressive. August can be good too, but the water is often still too silty. November coho are present but fewer and more sluggish.

Can I fish the upper river without a guide?

Yes, but you need to be comfortable hiking in steep terrain and fishing blind in glacier melt. Bring a map, compass, and GPS. The upper river is less crowded and holds fish year-round, but access is harder and the water conditions are more challenging.

Do I need a special permit to fish the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve?

No permit is required to fish, but you must follow state regulations and preserve rules. Motors are prohibited, camping is allowed only at designated sites, and fires are not permitted. Check with the Haines Ranger District for current site availability and any seasonal closures.

What size steelhead can I expect on the Chilkat?

Fall steelhead average 8 to 12 pounds, with some fish reaching 15 pounds or more. Spring steelhead are smaller, typically 6 to 10 pounds. Both runs are strong and acrobatic, and the cold water makes them fight hard.

Is the Chilkat River good for beginners?

The lower river in fall is manageable for anglers with some experience, but the fast water and cold temperatures demand respect. The upper river and spring steelhead fishing are better suited to experienced anglers. Consider hiring a guide for your first trip to learn the water and the techniques.